Martin Margiela graduated together with Walter Van Beirendonck in 1980, but does not belong to the Antwerp Six. He established himself almost immediately in Paris as assistant to Jean-Paul Gaultier. In October 2008, Maison Martin Margiela, which has been part of the Diesel group since 2002, will be celebrating its 20th anniversary. With reference to this birthday, the Fashion Museum in Antwerp has programmed the unique exhibition ‘MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA. (20) The exhibition’, from 12 September 2008 to 8 February 2009.
The second generation of designers who graduated from the end of the 80’s to the end of the 90’s with, amongst others, A.F.Vandevorst (An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx), Stephan Schneider, Veronique Branquinho, Kris Van Assche, Bernard Willhelm, Bruno Peters, etc., on the basis of their determination, strong and conceptual collections, ensured an immediate breakthrough. They established the avantgarde character - ‘L’Anverse de la Mode’ (The Wrong Side of Fashion), as the French fashion journalist, Elisabeth Paillé, so aptly described it - of the Antwerp fashion: the reverse side, the underdog, not as extravert as English fashion, not as sexy as Italian fashion, not as brainy as Japanese fashion.
Now the third generation comes marching along with the top designers who have graduated at the turn of the century, such as Christian Wijnants, Tim Van Steenbergen, Pelican Avenue (Carolin Lerch) Les Hommes (Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch), followed by recent names such as Peter Pilotto, Il Galantuomo (Gunhyo Kim) and EK Thongprasert.