Houses of the Heartland Goa

Diversely influenced and constantly evolving, the edifices of Goa are without parallel. A picturesque representation of both Mediterranean and eastern styles of architecture, they are examples of the present playing out as living history.

The tulsi (holy basil) plant welcomes visitors to the quintessential Goan Hindu home, its vermillion-streaked planter bearing signs of the ritualistic morning prayers. Festooned with strands of marigold, the tulsi is revered as a miracle plant and is a ubiquitous symbol of Hinduism.

Past the small porch, the courtyard leads to houses that are inward-looking, their small windows reflecting the sheltered lives of women in the pre-Portuguese era. The houses open into an inner courtyard called ‘rajangan’, and often have special rooms to celebrate the annual festival of Ganesh Chaturthi.

A typical Hindu home is low-scaled with a low plinth, a small seating porch with short bulbous columns and a loft like upper floor with windows.

The Portuguese imprint on the already strong architectural identity of Goa created a unique amalgam, unmatched in edifices across the world. The arrival of the Portuguese brought foreign influences and opportunities for Goans to travel. The contours and colours of the houses began to change.

Goans who embraced Christianity sought new identities, and their houses were one facet of cultural expression. Houses acquired ‘balcaos’ (sit-outs facing the street) with built-in seating at the entrance of the houses. Columns line the balcaos, and large, ornamental windows with varying designs helped sailors spot their houses as they sailed into port.

The rich tropical colours of these edifices add a wealth of character to Goan architecture. Only churches and chapels were allowed to remain white, and the law required other buildings to sport a colour. The houses thus were painted deep ochre, sapphire and claret, and the best surviving example of Portuguese era houses lie in the Fontainhas area of Panjim. Some of these have since been converted into heritage hotels or museums and retain their old world charm.

A Christian home has more than a metre high plinth, a lofty ground floor and if there is an upper floor, it would also be a regular height floor.

While the lovingly preserved heritage houses are evocative of the rich culture of this period, ordinary houses in the village are charming too. Sloping roofs made of bright red Mangalore tiles are required by law and make a pretty picture framed against green trees and blue skies. The Houses of Goa Museum, structured like a ship, is architect Gerard D’cunha’s tribute to the unique architecture of the region.

“Goa has through the ages been a melting point of different cultural and artistic influences. The spirit of experimentation displayed in the assimilation of these diverse trends has been my influence.”

Gerard D’cunha, Award Winning Architect.